We loved our “Family Cottage” (one of only two) at Halali; it also gave us the opportunity to do some self-catering. Dinner was stepped up a notch! Meals at the Etosha Camps have been nothing short of pedestrian, with seriously no imagination. And with the abundanceof meat around, vegetarians are the indisputable losers ……
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While still at Namutoni, a late afternoon game drive to some of the nearby waterholes delivered exactly what Etosha is so well known for … a Noah’s ark line-up of animals — but this time in far larger numbers. It was 4 p.m., 33°C, at Chudop waterhole. At its far end, a herd of eland…
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A long, straight, tar highway drew us southwest towards Grootfontein, Tsumeb, and ultimately, the southeastern corner of Etosha. This time, ranged outside village fences, were rows of oval clay pots, then upended mokoros honed into different shapes out of rich dark wood. Lining the settled areas stood the most gargantuan sycamore figs, all massive canopies…
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  We drifted upward so subtly, so stealthily, that when next we peered over the edge of the basket, crew members were simply Morse code dashes. Gemsbok were bleached pebbles and ostriches were beetles throwing whisker-thin shadows. Beneath us was a world reduced to colours and texture: cones, wavy spines, circles, lines, all in shades…
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